Despite general gloom in the entertainment world, nightclubs for the young and seriously trendy are the happening scene (as they say in the business)

FOUR o’clock on a Sunday morning in Trafalgar Square, there are usually a couple of hundred people waiting at bus stops. Some wear scruffy bomber jackets, some shiny leggings, some are in black with their faces painted white. In Brixton, Notting Hill, a Hackney an Camden, hundreds more wander along the pavements, some off to bed, some to another club.

London is Europe’s main clubbing city. Rome and Madrid have big scenes, Berlin and Amsterdam have variety, but only London has the size and the mix. According to the British Tourist Authority, in 1989 4% of European tourists said they came to dance. The Japanese are joining in, too: Gaz’s Rockin’ Blues in the West End has a regular crowd of Japanese in impeccable designer scruff.

New York has the high-fashion film-star clubs, but London has a bigger grassroots scene. Part of London’s advantage lies in its relative racial harmony. Blacks, who make most of